Amiata Sweater
The Amiata Sweater is an oversized raglan sweater knitted in Stockinette stitch, worked top-down and in the round. You will begin with the yoke and then move on to some short-row shaping across the back and shoulders to give the neckline a round effect. You will then work raglan shaping, with compound increases. When the yoke shaping is done, you will leave the sleeve stitches to rest and work the body. Next, you will apply the collar before finishing by working each sleeve with some light shaping.
Please note that this is a digital download and not a physical knitting pattern. It has been formatted for A5 paper. For pattern support, please email me.
The Amiata Sweater is an oversized raglan sweater knitted in Stockinette stitch, worked top-down and in the round. You will begin with the yoke and then move on to some short-row shaping across the back and shoulders to give the neckline a round effect. You will then work raglan shaping, with compound increases. When the yoke shaping is done, you will leave the sleeve stitches to rest and work the body. Next, you will apply the collar before finishing by working each sleeve with some light shaping.
Please note that this is a digital download and not a physical knitting pattern. It has been formatted for A5 paper. For pattern support, please email me.
The Amiata Sweater is an oversized raglan sweater knitted in Stockinette stitch, worked top-down and in the round. You will begin with the yoke and then move on to some short-row shaping across the back and shoulders to give the neckline a round effect. You will then work raglan shaping, with compound increases. When the yoke shaping is done, you will leave the sleeve stitches to rest and work the body. Next, you will apply the collar before finishing by working each sleeve with some light shaping.
Please note that this is a digital download and not a physical knitting pattern. It has been formatted for A5 paper. For pattern support, please email me.
Materials & Fit
Notions: You will need 5 mm [US 8] (40-cm [16-in] cord) and 6 mm [US 10] (40-, 60-, and/or a 80-/100-cm [16-, 24-, and/or a 32-/40-in cord], 8 mm [US 11] (40-, 60-, and/or a 80-/100-cm [16-, 24-, and/or a 32-/40-in cord] circular needles. You will also need at least 8 stitch markers, one of which should be in a contrasting colour to indicate the beginning of the round, a darning needle, and either scrap yarn, spare circular needles, or stitch holders for the resting sleeve stitches.
Tension: 13 stitches x 17 rows/rounds in Stockinette stitch on 8 mm [US 11] = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 in]. Row gauge shouldn’t be too important for this project, but it may pose some issues for the yoke depth for the larger sizes if yours is significantly looser than mine. You may wish to omit some of the plain rounds with no increases towards the end of the yoke; please email me if you need guidance with this.
Yarn: I estimate that you will need approximately 520 (550) 580 (610), 630 (650) 670 (710), 730 (790) 860 (920) m [570 (605) 640 (670), 690 (715) 735 (780), 800 (870) 940 (1,010) yds] of a chunky- and a lace-weight yarn each.
I have tried to be generous here, and these estimates are based on the quantity of yarn used to make the sample garment. To help with clarity, I have also rounded the quantities to the nearest 10 m and converted these figures into yards, which I have then rounded to the nearest 5 yards.
For my sample garment, I used Gepard Puno (50 g = 110 m [120 yds]; 68% baby alpaca, 10% fine merino wool, 22% PA) in the shade 720 held with a strand of Mohair by Canard Brushed Lace Mohair (25 g = 210 m [230 yds]; 72% kid mohair, 28% mulberry silk) in the shade 3012.
If you wanted to use the same yarn, this works out to be 5 (5-6) 6 (6), 6 (6-7) 7 (7), 7 (8) 8 (9) balls of Gepard Puno and 3 (3) 3 (3), 3-4 (4) 4 (4), 4 (4) 4-5 (5) of Mohair by Canard Brushed Lace Mohair.
Yarn alternatives: Any chunky-weight yarn will work well here. I’d recommend sticking with blown yarns where possible as they are lighter and wear well.
Sizing and ease: The Amiata Sweater has recommended positive ease of approximately 12.5-17.5 cm [5-7 in] for Sizes A-H, and 7.5-17.5 cm [3-7 in] for Sizes I-L. If you would like more ease, choose a larger size and if you would like less ease, choose a smaller size. Use the information below to help find your size. The sample garment is Size D to fit a model with a 92-cm [36.25-in] chest.
Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), 95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115), 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155)
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), 37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25), 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61)
Actual circumference of garment (cm): 92.5 (98.5) 101.5 (107.5), 114 (117) 123 (129), 132.5 (141.5) 154 (163)
Actual circumference of garment (in): 36.25 (38.75) 40 (42.5), 44.75 (46) 48.5 (51), 52 (55.75) 60.5 (64.25)
Armhole depth of garment (cm): 24 (24) 25 (25.5), 25.5 (26) 26.5 (27), 27.5 (27.5) 29 (30.5)
Armhole depth of garment (in): 9.5 (9.5) 9.75 (10), 10 (10.25) 10.5 (10.5), 10.75 (11) 11.5 (12)
Upper arm circumference of garment (cm): 33 (34) 36 (37), 38.5 (39) 40 (42.5), 43 (47) 50 (54)
Upper arm circumference of garment (in): 13 (13.25) 14.25 (14.5), 15.25 (15.5) 15.75 (16.75), 17 (18.5) 19.75 (21.25)
Body length from underarm (cm): 40
Body length from underarm (in): 15.75
Sleeve length (cm): 45
Sleeve length (in): 17.75
These measurements have been rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm and 0.25 in.
Techniques include working flat and in the round, German short rows, raglan shaping with leaning increases, picking up stitches along a cast-on edge, working an applied folded collar, and tubular cast-offs.
