Solent Tee

Materials & Fit

Notions: You will need 3 mm [US 2.5] (40-cm [16-in] cord), 4 mm [US 6] (40-, 60-, and/or a 80-/100-cm [16-, 24-, and/or a 32-/40-in cord], and 5 mm [US 8] (40-, 60-, and/or a 80-/100-cm [16-, 24-, and/or a 32-/40-in cord] circular needles. You will also need at least 9 stitch markers, one of which should be in a contrasting colour to indicate the beginning of the round, a darning needle, and either scrap yarn, spare circular needles, or stitch holders for resting stitches.

Tension: 19 stitches x 29 rows/rounds in Andalusian stitch and Stockinette stitch on 5 mm [US 8] = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 in]. Row gauge shouldn’t be too important for this project, but it may pose some issues for the yoke depth for the larger sizes if yours is significantly looser than mine. You may wish to omit some of the plain rounds with no increases towards the end of the yoke; please email me if you need guidance with this.

Please note that if you are using a plant-based yarn (e.g., King Cole Bamboo Cotton, more on which below), you may need to go down at least half a needle size. 

Yarn: I estimate that you will need approximately 1,090 (1,160) 1,280 (1,380), 1,480 (1,560) 1,650 (1,760), 2,050 (2,250) 2,490 (2,700) m [1,190 (1,270) 1,400 (1,510), 1,620 (1,710) 1,810 (1,920), 2,240 (2,460) 2,720 (2,960) yds] of a fingering-weight yarn held double. 

I have tried to be generous here, and these estimates are based on the quantity of yarn used to make the sample garment. To help with clarity, I have also rounded the quantities to the nearest 10 m and converted these figures into yards, which I have then rounded to the nearest 10 yards to ensure you will have enough yarn.

For the sample garment (Size D), I used Sandnes Garn Sunday (50 g = 235 m[257 yds]; 100% merino wool) in the shade Dark Chocolate (#3880).

If you wanted to use the same yarn, this works out to be 5 (5-6) 6 (6), 7 (7) 7-8 (8), 9 (10) 11 (12) balls Sandnes Garn Sunday.

Yarn alternatives: Any fingering-weight merino wool held double would be lovely here as an alternative. I’d recommend sticking with non-superwash merino wools for best results. 

Two strands of a fingering-weight cotton-merino blend wool, like Knitting for Olive Cotton Merino (50 g = 250 m [274 yds]; 70% merino wool, 30% cotton) or Gepard CottonWool 3 (50 g = 230 m [252 yds]; 50% cotton, 50% merino) would also be a great, warm-weather friendly option. 

Please note, though, that I find Sandnes Garn Sunday knits up slightly tighter than Knitting for Olive Merino, so you may need to swatch on a needle size down (e.g., a 4.5 mm [US 7] needle instead of a 5 mm [US 8] needle) if using this yarn.

You could also use one strand of fingering-weight yarn with a strand of lace-weight yarn, like a lace-weight silk mohair, for a fluffier finish. Another good option would be to use a strand of a plant-based yarn like Isager Trio 1 (50 g = 350 m [383 yds]; 50% linen, 30% cotton, 20% lyocell) or Isager Bomulin (50 g = 210 m [230 yds]; 65% cotton and 35% linen) along with a strand of merino wool. 

You could also use a light DK-weight yarn held single for this pattern. I estimate that you would then need 550 (580) 640 (690), 740 (780) 830 (880), 1,020 (1,130) 1,250 (1,350) m [600 (640) 700 (760), 810 (860) 900 (960), 1,120 (1,230) 1360 (1,480) yds].

A good example here would be King Cole Bamboo Cotton (100 g = 230 m [252 yds]; 50% bamboo viscose, 50% cotton). You’d get a really lovely, cooling fabric with this yarn as it is entirely plant-based, but I would recommend checking your gauge carefully and possibly going down a needle size. My row gauge is the same with this yarn, but my stitch gauge with the same 5 mm [US 8] needles was only 17 stitches in 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 in] of Andalusian stitch, as opposed to 19. This doesn’t sound like much, but the cumulative effect could have a significant effect on the fit of the final garment – especially if you are making a larger size. 

Sizing and ease: The Solent Tee has a recommended positive ease of between 2.5-7.5 cm [1-3 in] for Sizes A-H, and and 0-10 cm [0-4 in] positive ease for Sizes I-L. 

You should pick a size based on your full chest measurement with reference to the schematic information below. 

If you would prefer more ease, feel free to choose a larger size and if you would prefer less ease, pick a size down. 

Size: A (B) C (D), E (F) G (H), I (J) K (L)

Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), 95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115), 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155)

Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), 37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25), 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61)

Actual size (cm): 82 (86.5) 91.5 (97), 102 (106.5) 111.5 (117), 124.5 (134.5) 144 (154.5)

Actual size (in): 32.25 (34) 36 (38.25), 40.25 (41.75) 44 (46), 49 (53) (56.75) 61

Yoke depth (cm): 17 (17) 17 (17), 19 (19) 19 (19), 21 (21) 23 (23) 

Yoke depth (in): 6.75 (6.75) 6.75 (6.75), 7.5 (7.5) 7.5 (7.5), 8.25 (8.25) 9.25 (9.25)

Sleeve length (cm): 13 

Sleeve length (in): 5.25

Sleeve circumference (cm): 29.5 (30.5) 31.5 (31.5), 35.5 (36) 36 (40.5), 44 (45.5) 48 (49)

Sleeve circumference (in): 11.5 (12) 12.5 (1.75), 14 (14) 14 (16), 17.5 (17.75) 18.75 (19.25)

Recommended length from underarm to hem (cm): 30 (31) 32 (33), 34 (35) 36 (37), 38 (39) 40 (41)

Recommended length from underarm to hem (in): 11.75 (12.25) 12.5 (13), 13.5 (13.75) 14.25 (14.5) 15 (15.25) 15.75 (16.25)

These measurements have been rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm and 0.25 in. I have a chest measurement of 92 cm [36 in]. The sample is Size D worn with about 5 cm [2 in] positive ease around my full bust.

Techniques include working increases and decreases, working in the round, German short rows, working a tubular cast-off, picking up stitches along a cast-on edge, and working an applied folded collar.