Aosta Cardigan 3.0
The Aosta Cardigan is worked top-down in Andalusian stitch using a chunky-weight yarn. The yoke and body are worked flat with V-neck shaping and the sleeves are worked in the round. Once the yoke is finished, you will leave the sleeves to rest and work the body to your desired length. You will then pick up the stitches for the sleeves and work them with optional decreases to create a slight taper. I recommend that you finish the body and sleeves with tubular cast-offs, but you can use your preferred method. You will then pick up and knit stitches to form the button band, which is worked in 1 x 1 rib. This is a pattern of easy-to-intermediate difficulty.
The pattern has been tech edited by Rebecca Williamson (@fancy_a_yarn) and Wendy Sargeant (@leftleaningstitch). For pattern support, please contact me by email or use the contact form on this site.
If you previously purchased the Aosta Cardigan in the past three years but have not received the updated pdf, please email me with a copy of your original receipt and I will be happy to send the update to you.
Please note that this is a pdf digital download and not a physical knitting pattern.
The Aosta Cardigan is worked top-down in Andalusian stitch using a chunky-weight yarn. The yoke and body are worked flat with V-neck shaping and the sleeves are worked in the round. Once the yoke is finished, you will leave the sleeves to rest and work the body to your desired length. You will then pick up the stitches for the sleeves and work them with optional decreases to create a slight taper. I recommend that you finish the body and sleeves with tubular cast-offs, but you can use your preferred method. You will then pick up and knit stitches to form the button band, which is worked in 1 x 1 rib. This is a pattern of easy-to-intermediate difficulty.
The pattern has been tech edited by Rebecca Williamson (@fancy_a_yarn) and Wendy Sargeant (@leftleaningstitch). For pattern support, please contact me by email or use the contact form on this site.
If you previously purchased the Aosta Cardigan in the past three years but have not received the updated pdf, please email me with a copy of your original receipt and I will be happy to send the update to you.
Please note that this is a pdf digital download and not a physical knitting pattern.
The Aosta Cardigan is worked top-down in Andalusian stitch using a chunky-weight yarn. The yoke and body are worked flat with V-neck shaping and the sleeves are worked in the round. Once the yoke is finished, you will leave the sleeves to rest and work the body to your desired length. You will then pick up the stitches for the sleeves and work them with optional decreases to create a slight taper. I recommend that you finish the body and sleeves with tubular cast-offs, but you can use your preferred method. You will then pick up and knit stitches to form the button band, which is worked in 1 x 1 rib. This is a pattern of easy-to-intermediate difficulty.
The pattern has been tech edited by Rebecca Williamson (@fancy_a_yarn) and Wendy Sargeant (@leftleaningstitch). For pattern support, please contact me by email or use the contact form on this site.
If you previously purchased the Aosta Cardigan in the past three years but have not received the updated pdf, please email me with a copy of your original receipt and I will be happy to send the update to you.
Please note that this is a pdf digital download and not a physical knitting pattern.
Materials & Fit
Notions: 6 mm [US 10] (40- and 80/100-cm [16-in and 32-/40-in] cord) and 7 mm [US 10.75] (40-, 60-, 80-, and/or 100-cm [16-in, 24-in, 32- and/or 40-in] cord) circular needles.
You will also need 8 stitch markers, one of which should be in a contrasting colour to indicate the beginning of the round, shirring elastic (optional), a darning needle, and some spare needles/scrap yarn/stitch holders where the stitches of the sleeves will rest. A clip-on marker may be helpful for the tubular bind-offs and for measuring sleeve length. You will also need between 4-6 20-mm buttons, depending on how many buttons you would like to use.
I am aware that 7 mm [US 10.75] needles can be hard to find in the US. If you are unable to find this needle size, I would recommend trying a 6.5 mm [US 10.5] needle instead as I have relatively tight tension. If this is too tight, try an 8 mm [US 11] instead.
Tension: 14 stitches x 21 rows/rounds in Andalusian stitch on 7 mm needles = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 in]. Make sure to wash and block your swatch for best results.
Yarn: Approximately 5 (5) 5 (6) 6, (6) 6 (7) 7 (7) 7-8 skeins of Filcolana Saga (100% lambswool; 300 m [328 yds]/50 g) held with 3-4 (4) 4 (4) 4, (4-5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5-6 skeins of Filcolana Tilia (70% mohair, 30% silk; 210 m [240.5 yds]/25 g). You will be working with 3 strands of yarn throughout (2 x strands of Saga, 1 x strand of Tilia).
This works out to be approximately 1,250 (1,350) 1,400 (1,450) 1,550, (1,650) 1,800 (1,850) 1,900 (2,000) 2,100 m [1,367.5 (1,477) 1,531.5 (1,567.5) 1,695.5, (1.805) 1,969 (2,024) 2,078.5 (2,188) 2,297.5 yds] of Filcolana Saga (again, keep in mind that you will be working with two strands of this yarn throughout) and 625 (675) 700 (725) 775, (825) 900 (925) 950 (1,000) 1,050 m [684 (738.5) 766 (793) 848, (902.5) 984.5 (1,012) 1,039.5 (1,094) 1,148.5 yds] of Filcolana Tilia.
Yarn alternatives: Any chunky-weight blown yarn with good stitch definition will be a good option here. Sandnes Garn Kos (62% alpaca, 29% nylon, 9% wool; 150 m [164 yds]/50 g) is a great alternative if you prefer working with fewer strands of yarn, and this is what I used for the Aosta Sweater 3.0 sample. Drops Air would probably be the best alternative for Kos, though Kit Couture Blow Garn would also be lovely and is available in a range of fun, speckled colours. If you want to avoid mohair, Filcolana Alva (100% alpaca; 175 m [191 yds]/25 g) is a nice alternative or you could use something like Fiberspates Cumulus (74% baby suri alpaca, 26% silk; 150 m [164 yds]/25g) or Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk (77% alpaca, 23% silk; 140 m [153 yds]/25 g) for a fluffier finish. If you don’t like blown yarns, you could also use a chunky-weight yarn with a different texture, such as Lopi Álafoss Lopi (100% Icelandic wool; 100 m [109 yds]/100 g].
Size: A (B) C (D) E, (F) G (H) I (J) K
Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95) 95-100, (100-105) 105- 110 (110-115) 115-125 (125-135) 135-145
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5) 37.5-39.2.5, (39.3-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25) 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57
Actual circumference of garment (cm): 86.5 (92) 98 (100.5) 106.5, (112) 118 (123.5) 132 (140.5) 152
Actual circumference of garment (in): 34 (36.25) 38.5 (39.75) 42, (44.25) 46.5 (48.75) 52 (55.5) 60
Actual circumference of upper sleeve (cm): 35.5 (37) 38 (38.5) 43, (45.5) 48.5 (50) 50 (54.5) 57
Actual circumference of upper sleeve (in): 14 (14.5) 15.25 (15.25) 17, (18) 19 (19.75) 19.75 (21.5) 22.5
Recommended sleeve length (cm): 45, with options to adjust as needed
Recommended sleeve length (in): 17.75, with options to adjust as needed
Yoke depth (cm): 17.5 (19.5) 20.5 (20.5) 20.5, (22.5) 24.5 (23.5) 25 (26) 27
Yoke depth (in): 7 (7.5) 8 (8) 8, (9) 9.75 (9.25) 10 (10.25) 10.5
Recommended total length, measured from bottom of collar to hem (cm): 54 (56) 57 (60) 62, (64) 66 (68) 69 (70) 72
Recommended total length, measured from bottom of collar to hem (in): 21.25 (22) 22.5 (23.75) 24.5, (25.25) 26 (26.75) 27.25 (27.5) 28.5
